From leftovers to lead act

Homemade fish cakes are a delicious and satisfying way to repurpose last night's dinner. DANIELLE ROSE PHOTOS

You’ll fish once but eat twice with this fishcake recipe

BY DANIELLE ROSE

Leftover fish is a conundrum for many cooks. No one wants to waste a fresh catch, but fish is notorious for reheating poorly. Fish cakes are the exception. They transform leftover fish into something outstanding.

In my family, we often cook extra fish on purpose so there is enough for fish cakes. Any kind of fish works, and even a small amount is fine. This recipe does not need to be followed precisely. Eyeball it. Wing it. Use what you have on hand. Just do not skip the potato. Boiled, baked or microwaved all work, as long as the potato is peeled and mashed.

The potato provides the structure, helping the cakes turn golden brown and crisp on the outside while staying tender inside. Over the years, I have learned a few tricks for perfectly crispy fish cakes. First, chill the cakes in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before cooking. They hold together much better. Second, avoid overcrowding the pan. Fry in batches if needed and keep finished cakes warm in the oven. The extra space allows you to turn each cake gently with a spatula so it does not fall apart.